This year's Japanese Food & Restaurant Show was an exciting event, with sake tastings, premium food samplings and people-watching galore (I caught sight of folks from Haru, Morimoto, Sushi Den, Takahachi and Soba Totto). Japanese cookbook celeb Hiroko Shimbo was on hand to sign cookbooks (you can find her recipe for tuna tartare here). I enjoyed tasting many innovations: Yamamoto-yama tea in apple and mint flavors; "Super Frozen Tuna" sashimi, boiled cut wild octopus from Azuma Foods, coffee gyuhi crepes, and white peach Sakura Muromachi dessert sake.
But the highlight of the show for me was the "History Of Sushi" lecture given by Eiji Ichimura, who was introduced as "the sushi chef's sushi chef." He passed out marinated tuna in bamboo leaves and salmon roe as he gave us a crash course in sushi.
We learned that sushi came into being when a mild vinegar, akazu, became popular; people used to eat a dish of fermented fish and rice. In the 1800s, a gentleman named Yohei Hanaya apparently created the nigiri-zushi that is so widely enjoyed today. Sushi used to be consumed in much larger portions (three pieces were enough for a meal!) and the prized toro, or tuna belly, was once routinely thrown away. Speaking of tuna, it was not generally consumed as sushi until the 1940s. Salmon roe and sea urchin are also relatively recent additions to the sushi menu. Old-time sushi lovers commonly ate clams, shrimp, whitefish, and silver-skinned fish such as mackerel.
Are you hungry? Well, so was I! After the show I headed over to my beloved Hasaki, where the special, coincidentally, was an Edo-Mae sushi plate. Mmm.
Monday, September 29, 2008
Free Pie In Times Square
I usually avoid Times Square like the plague, but I'll go almost anywhere for free pie. And according to an E-mail I just got from ABC, there will be a free pie truck around Good Morning America's Broadway Studios today! The so-called "Mobile Pie Hole" has been traveling the country, serving up apple pie, blueberry pie and Georgia peach cobbler to promote the new season of Pushing Daisies.
Thursday, September 25, 2008
The University of Coffee
According to the National Coffee Association, U.S. consumption of coffee now surpasses that of soft drinks. Every day, Americans drink around 350 million cups. With all this consumption comes more sophistication - we're no longer satisfied with a mug of diner dishwater. Starbucks, which has been instrumental in spreading coffee culture (if not universally acclaimed), recently acquired the company that makes high-end Clover machines. (The Clover is responsible for the delicious brew at serious coffee shrines such as Cafe Grumpy.)
But long before there was Starbucks, there was Illy. Founded in 1933, the Italian company is involved in every step of coffee production from the selection of beans to the perfection of espresso machines. Since 1999, Illy has taken on yet another role - that of educator. Illy's University of Coffee, which already includes 11 international campuses, is about to set up shop at New York's International Culinary Center. Classes will begin in February 2009.
I had the privilege of previewing the course, and came away - "chock-full o' information" - and caffeine! The top two baristas in Italy, Giorgio Milos and Michele Pauletic, expertly prepared cappuccinos and espressos for all the students. (I asked Mr. Pauletic, "How long did you study this art?" "Five years!" was his reply.)
The class was divided into morning lectures, complete with slides and movies, and an afternoon hands-on session. Lecture topics included an international history of coffee, production from the bean to the cup, and the physiological effects of coffee. The history lecture was fascinating to me; I learned that coffee was consumed by Yemenite monks as early as the 13th century - it helped them stay alert for prayer. At first, people boiled the green, unroasted beans. Nomads in Africa mixed their crushed beans with animal fat as a sort of trail mix! And here's a bit of cultural trivia; Turkish law once stipulated that a husband's inability to provide enough coffee was - ahem - grounds for divorce.
The history course went on to cover the different types of coffee machines and the foibles of early models. Did you know that the French press was an English invention? Or that espresso machines were once so complex that a barista couldn't even decipher their operation? And with one unfortunate model, levers suddenly hit people in the face, sending them to the hospital. The stove-top espresso pot, invented by Bialetti in 1933, brought coffee-drinking from the cafe to the home. (Here, our instructor digressed, giving us a helpful mini-tutorial: when using a moka pot, don't tamp down the grounds in the filter! And try to pour out the last 20% of coffee, as it's bound to taste burnt.)
The afternoon sessions featured a tasting of 15 espresso blends, and a lesson on how to make the perfect cappuccino. Mr. Milos and Mr. Pauletic created the most beautiful cappuccino art, mesmerizing us with rosettes, leaves and hearts. We learned how to pour the foam to create the best milk canvas for coffee painting - and how to create the best foam! (Some tips: always use whole milk, never reuse the milk, and if there are visible bubbles instead of an even, velvety white layer, it's wrong!)
Mr. Milos reminded us that the perfect cappuccino requires the perfect espresso, and he taught us about all the variables to create it: the amount of coffee, water temperature, water pressure, time of extraction, amount of water, and tamping technique. We also learned about the four important components of coffee beans: bitterness, acidity, sweetness and aroma. (Did you know that when roasted, a coffee bean quadruples in aromatic elements? Or that Ethiopian beans are added to sweeten a blend?)
This morning, after my customary stove-top espresso, I Googled "how to make a good espresso." There were 5,270,000 results; something tells me there's going to be a lot of interest in the University of Coffee.
The International Culinary Center: 462 Broadway, (888) 324-2433.
But long before there was Starbucks, there was Illy. Founded in 1933, the Italian company is involved in every step of coffee production from the selection of beans to the perfection of espresso machines. Since 1999, Illy has taken on yet another role - that of educator. Illy's University of Coffee, which already includes 11 international campuses, is about to set up shop at New York's International Culinary Center. Classes will begin in February 2009.
I had the privilege of previewing the course, and came away - "chock-full o' information" - and caffeine! The top two baristas in Italy, Giorgio Milos and Michele Pauletic, expertly prepared cappuccinos and espressos for all the students. (I asked Mr. Pauletic, "How long did you study this art?" "Five years!" was his reply.)
The class was divided into morning lectures, complete with slides and movies, and an afternoon hands-on session. Lecture topics included an international history of coffee, production from the bean to the cup, and the physiological effects of coffee. The history lecture was fascinating to me; I learned that coffee was consumed by Yemenite monks as early as the 13th century - it helped them stay alert for prayer. At first, people boiled the green, unroasted beans. Nomads in Africa mixed their crushed beans with animal fat as a sort of trail mix! And here's a bit of cultural trivia; Turkish law once stipulated that a husband's inability to provide enough coffee was - ahem - grounds for divorce.
The history course went on to cover the different types of coffee machines and the foibles of early models. Did you know that the French press was an English invention? Or that espresso machines were once so complex that a barista couldn't even decipher their operation? And with one unfortunate model, levers suddenly hit people in the face, sending them to the hospital. The stove-top espresso pot, invented by Bialetti in 1933, brought coffee-drinking from the cafe to the home. (Here, our instructor digressed, giving us a helpful mini-tutorial: when using a moka pot, don't tamp down the grounds in the filter! And try to pour out the last 20% of coffee, as it's bound to taste burnt.)
The afternoon sessions featured a tasting of 15 espresso blends, and a lesson on how to make the perfect cappuccino. Mr. Milos and Mr. Pauletic created the most beautiful cappuccino art, mesmerizing us with rosettes, leaves and hearts. We learned how to pour the foam to create the best milk canvas for coffee painting - and how to create the best foam! (Some tips: always use whole milk, never reuse the milk, and if there are visible bubbles instead of an even, velvety white layer, it's wrong!)
Mr. Milos reminded us that the perfect cappuccino requires the perfect espresso, and he taught us about all the variables to create it: the amount of coffee, water temperature, water pressure, time of extraction, amount of water, and tamping technique. We also learned about the four important components of coffee beans: bitterness, acidity, sweetness and aroma. (Did you know that when roasted, a coffee bean quadruples in aromatic elements? Or that Ethiopian beans are added to sweeten a blend?)
This morning, after my customary stove-top espresso, I Googled "how to make a good espresso." There were 5,270,000 results; something tells me there's going to be a lot of interest in the University of Coffee.
The International Culinary Center: 462 Broadway, (888) 324-2433.
Thursday, September 18, 2008
Salli Vates' Third Anniversary: Adour
For our very special occasion, my companion and I chose a very special restaurant. Fortunately, an intimate table for two on the left side was available (when I'd called, the reservationist said she couldn't guarantee it, so I guess we were lucky). It may sound strange, but one of the first things we noticed about Adour was the near absence of background music. The resulting serenity allowed us to focus all of our attention on a superb tasting menu. (We were going to order a la carte; the tasting menu listed a "strawberry composition" and I wanted the apricot souffle. But Guthrie, the elegant gentleman who took care of us for the evening, happily accommodated the substitution!)
We toasted the occasion with glasses of sauvignon blanc and merlot, spread some salted black olive butter over our green olive rolls, and awaited our amuse bouche: a teacup of gazpacho topped with a layer of watermelon foam. As we drained our cups, the tastes and textures changed; the watermelon foam was clean, sweet and light, and then there was the spicy soup with tiny watermelon dice, and a final crunch of croutons at the bottom of the cup.
Next up was the cucumber vinegar marinated hamachi - what a beautiful dish. An intricate latticework of green apple, avocado, cucumber and crouton matchsticks was surrounded by a flourish of green apple mustard. It lay next to a healthy portion of buttery yellowtail crudo, which was sprinkled with a dark green kaffir lime condiment. At first glance we thought it was crumbled nori, but it had an intense citrus flavor.
The next course, a multicolored vegetable composition, was even more visually arresting; it resembled a modern geometric painting. A background of tomato-colored liquid framed an upward-facing assortment of orange, yellow and green vegetable stalks (this was my companion's analogy: "It looks like a city of vegetables!"). Each tender stalk of potato, fennel, leek, carrot, baby artichoke, carrot, celery and zucchini maintained its own distinct taste.
A lobster "lasagna" consisted of three triangular pockets of pasta (one of which was mottled with strips of chervil, another dark with black olives), heaps of sweet lobster meat, zucchini, and an oven-dried tomato - all in a delectable brown sauce. (Now I was beginning to think I shouldn't have asked for seconds on the rolls.) The main course was a rich breast of duck with a trio of red and white radishes and a caramelized shallot, with a cup of polenta topped with the brown jus and a sliced nicoise olive. We tried to linger over the duck, but it was just too delicious, and we polished it off in short order.
Guthrie then wished us a happy anniversary and presented us with a candle-adorned strawberry composition in addition to the two desserts we'd ordered. Delicately sliced strawberries surrounded a creamy fromage blanc center, and crunchy cookie crumbs lay underneath. But I could not get my spoon out of my gorgeous apricot souffle. Golden and puffy and sugar-dusted, it had a small surprise of warm apricot brandy and ladyfingers at the bottom. I also managed a few bites of my companion's multi-textured cherry chocolate dessert with gianduja sable; layers of icy cherry granita and dark cherry gelee lay in between dark chocolate squares. Then came a plate of raspberry and coffee macarons, and another of dark and milk chocolates. What a meal and an anniversary to remember!
Adour: Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York: 2 East 55th St., (212) 710-2277.
We toasted the occasion with glasses of sauvignon blanc and merlot, spread some salted black olive butter over our green olive rolls, and awaited our amuse bouche: a teacup of gazpacho topped with a layer of watermelon foam. As we drained our cups, the tastes and textures changed; the watermelon foam was clean, sweet and light, and then there was the spicy soup with tiny watermelon dice, and a final crunch of croutons at the bottom of the cup.
Next up was the cucumber vinegar marinated hamachi - what a beautiful dish. An intricate latticework of green apple, avocado, cucumber and crouton matchsticks was surrounded by a flourish of green apple mustard. It lay next to a healthy portion of buttery yellowtail crudo, which was sprinkled with a dark green kaffir lime condiment. At first glance we thought it was crumbled nori, but it had an intense citrus flavor.
The next course, a multicolored vegetable composition, was even more visually arresting; it resembled a modern geometric painting. A background of tomato-colored liquid framed an upward-facing assortment of orange, yellow and green vegetable stalks (this was my companion's analogy: "It looks like a city of vegetables!"). Each tender stalk of potato, fennel, leek, carrot, baby artichoke, carrot, celery and zucchini maintained its own distinct taste.
A lobster "lasagna" consisted of three triangular pockets of pasta (one of which was mottled with strips of chervil, another dark with black olives), heaps of sweet lobster meat, zucchini, and an oven-dried tomato - all in a delectable brown sauce. (Now I was beginning to think I shouldn't have asked for seconds on the rolls.) The main course was a rich breast of duck with a trio of red and white radishes and a caramelized shallot, with a cup of polenta topped with the brown jus and a sliced nicoise olive. We tried to linger over the duck, but it was just too delicious, and we polished it off in short order.
Guthrie then wished us a happy anniversary and presented us with a candle-adorned strawberry composition in addition to the two desserts we'd ordered. Delicately sliced strawberries surrounded a creamy fromage blanc center, and crunchy cookie crumbs lay underneath. But I could not get my spoon out of my gorgeous apricot souffle. Golden and puffy and sugar-dusted, it had a small surprise of warm apricot brandy and ladyfingers at the bottom. I also managed a few bites of my companion's multi-textured cherry chocolate dessert with gianduja sable; layers of icy cherry granita and dark cherry gelee lay in between dark chocolate squares. Then came a plate of raspberry and coffee macarons, and another of dark and milk chocolates. What a meal and an anniversary to remember!
Adour: Adour Alain Ducasse at The St. Regis New York: 2 East 55th St., (212) 710-2277.
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Nizza
The folks behind French Roast, Cafe D'Alsace, and Nice Matin have brought us another crowd-pleaser: Nizza. And on my recent visit, the crowd definitely seemed pleased. But as I watched them ooh-ing and aah-ing over their bountiful bowls of pasta and pizzas scattered with basil strips, I had the sneaking suspicion that I'd ordered the wrong thing.
I'd struggled mightily over my choices, too, because the menu couldn't have appealed to me more than if I'd written it myself. It had burrata, fresh pasta filled with greens and herbs, meatballs with polenta and hot peppers... you can see how it would be hard to decide. But my suspicions were confirmed when I was presented with my appetizer, a plate of panisses. The chickpea fries were underdone and gooey on the inside, although the accompanying paprika aioli had a nice kick.
Fast forward to dinner. The couple at the table next to me were happily trying each other's pasta al pesto and spaghettini with shrimp. I'd chosen the marinated swordfish in a "salsa gialla"; the small portion of fish was dry and charred. All was not lost, however; after wondering about the semolina pistachio pudding, I ended up with a dessert winner: the orange-chocolate crostata. It was a hot, flaky pie crust layered with candied orange slices and little bursts of bittersweet chocolate. Now this was something I could enjoy from start to finish!
I'm definitely going to give Nizza another chance; all those Campari-drinkers and pizza-eaters can't be wrong.
Nizza: 630 Ninth Ave., (212) 956-1800.
I'd struggled mightily over my choices, too, because the menu couldn't have appealed to me more than if I'd written it myself. It had burrata, fresh pasta filled with greens and herbs, meatballs with polenta and hot peppers... you can see how it would be hard to decide. But my suspicions were confirmed when I was presented with my appetizer, a plate of panisses. The chickpea fries were underdone and gooey on the inside, although the accompanying paprika aioli had a nice kick.
Fast forward to dinner. The couple at the table next to me were happily trying each other's pasta al pesto and spaghettini with shrimp. I'd chosen the marinated swordfish in a "salsa gialla"; the small portion of fish was dry and charred. All was not lost, however; after wondering about the semolina pistachio pudding, I ended up with a dessert winner: the orange-chocolate crostata. It was a hot, flaky pie crust layered with candied orange slices and little bursts of bittersweet chocolate. Now this was something I could enjoy from start to finish!
I'm definitely going to give Nizza another chance; all those Campari-drinkers and pizza-eaters can't be wrong.
Nizza: 630 Ninth Ave., (212) 956-1800.
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Borigogae
The transition between summer and fall can sometimes challenge one's immunity. A Korean friend told me that when she felt ill as a child, her mother would prepare her a bowl of jook, or hot rice porridge.
This comforting dish, which is similar to Japanese okayu and Chinese congee, is the specialty at Borigogae, a tiny Flushing storefront. Eight flavors are served there; my favorite is the thick, nutty black sesame, while my sweet-toothed companion favors the sweet pumpkin. We still have yet to try the pine nut and the abalone varieties. But I have to wonder if the restorative properties lie not in the porridge, but in the very spicy, garlicky homemade pickles served on the side.
When I visited Borigogae the other day, the owner not only gave me two kinds of spicy pickles to try, but she unexpectedly gifted me with a large, greaseless scallion pancake. I was glad I had no dinner plans for that evening!
Borigogae: 40-10 Union Street, Flushing, (718) 888-1644.
This comforting dish, which is similar to Japanese okayu and Chinese congee, is the specialty at Borigogae, a tiny Flushing storefront. Eight flavors are served there; my favorite is the thick, nutty black sesame, while my sweet-toothed companion favors the sweet pumpkin. We still have yet to try the pine nut and the abalone varieties. But I have to wonder if the restorative properties lie not in the porridge, but in the very spicy, garlicky homemade pickles served on the side.
When I visited Borigogae the other day, the owner not only gave me two kinds of spicy pickles to try, but she unexpectedly gifted me with a large, greaseless scallion pancake. I was glad I had no dinner plans for that evening!
Borigogae: 40-10 Union Street, Flushing, (718) 888-1644.
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Free Food and Jazz on East 11th Street
It's hard to believe that summer is almost over. But you can send the season off in style by attending the last two installments of this delightful summer concert series: the 11BC Garden's Summer 2008 Jazz Series. Various local restaurants, including nearby Matilda's, Cafecito and brand-new Panificio, have taken it upon themselves to donate food for concertgoers! (Last Saturday, there were prosciutto quesadillas from Matilda's. Unfortunately, the series' arrangement with Back Forty fell through.) The performance of the standards is just as tasty as the food.
(11BC Community Garden: 626 East 11th St., between Avenues B and C. The remaining performances take place on Saturday, September 6, from 3:00-5:30 pm, and Saturday, September 13, from 4:30-7:00 pm. I'll be sitting next to the sunflowers.)
(11BC Community Garden: 626 East 11th St., between Avenues B and C. The remaining performances take place on Saturday, September 6, from 3:00-5:30 pm, and Saturday, September 13, from 4:30-7:00 pm. I'll be sitting next to the sunflowers.)
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